Where Should Your Sump Water Go? A Yard-by-Yard Decision Guide

Walt Brenner 25 August 2026 · 22 min read

A working sump pump does not automatically mean a protected basement. If the exterior discharge releases water where it can flow or seep back toward the foundation, the pump may simply recycle the same water.

The best ideas for sump pump discharge therefore begin with the destination—not a universal pipe material, burial depth, or distance. A successful route must suit the yard’s grade, soil, seasonal groundwater, climate, pump output, maintenance needs, and local drainage rules.

This guide provides general information. It cannot establish site-specific hydraulic performance, safe excavation conditions, or code compliance. Follow the pump manufacturer’s instructions, verify local requirements, locate buried utilities before digging, and obtain qualified help when capacity or downstream effects are uncertain.

Start With the Destination, Not the Pipe

Before choosing PVC, flexible tubing, a pop-up emitter, or a buried extension, decide where the water can safely and lawfully end up. The receiving area must do at least one of four things:

Carry water farther downhill through a swale, ditch, pipe, or approved stormwater system.
Spread concentrated flow over stable ground without causing damaging erosion.
Store water temporarily while controlling where overflow goes.
Infiltrate water into suitable soil at a rate compatible with the incoming discharge.

The destination also needs a failure plan. Ask where the water will go when the ground is saturated, an infiltration basin is full, an outlet is buried in snow, or a downstream pipe is clogged.

Commercial drainage guidance frequently suggests extending sump discharge roughly 10–20 feet from the foundation, but that is a starting range rather than a universal requirement. Grade, soil, seasonal groundwater, pump activity, property boundaries, and local rules determine whether a particular distance is adequate. One contractor’s discharge guide describes 10–20 feet as general siting guidance.

Elevation and direction can matter more than distance alone. An outlet 30 feet away may still fail if it empties into a depression that eventually drains toward the house. A closer outlet on a stable, continuous downhill path may perform better, provided the location complies with local requirements and does not affect neighboring property.

Practical options include:

A removable above-ground extension
A solid buried line that daylights on lower ground
A pop-up emitter
A splash block or rock apron
A shallow vegetated swale
A decorative dry-creek bed
A rain garden
A dry well
A gravel-filled infiltration trench
A locally approved stormwater connection

Evaluate them in this order:

Lawful destination
Dependable drainage path
Soil and seasonal groundwater
Winter exposure
Actual pump flow
Behavior during blockage or saturation
Inspection and maintenance access
Appearance

This order prevents a common design mistake: choosing the neatest pipe arrangement before confirming that its destination can accept or carry the water.

Assess the Yard Before Choosing an Outlet

Walk the proposed route from the house to the receiving point. Do not inspect only the place where the pipe will lie; follow the path water will take after it leaves the outlet.

Pre-design checklist

Record these conditions before digging:

Yard slope: Does the land fall consistently away, or are there low spots and reverse grades?
Outlet elevation: Can the exterior extension drain by gravity after each pump cycle?
Soil drainage: Is the soil sandy, loamy, compacted, or clay-heavy?
Seasonal groundwater: Does water enter shallow excavations during wet months?
Pump frequency: Does the pump run only after severe storms, or does it cycle for hours?
Winter conditions: Will exposed sections, outlets, or receiving soil freeze or become buried in snow?
Available space: Is there room for a swale, rain garden, dry well, or longer route?
Property boundaries: Could the discharge cross an easement or affect neighboring land?
Lawful receiving points: Is surface discharge permitted? Is an approved ditch, curb outlet, or stormwater connection available?
Maintenance access: Can you find the outlet, remove debris, and repair erosion?
Overflow route: Where will water go if the intended destination cannot accept it?

Where a yard provides continuous fall to a visible outlet on lower ground, daylight discharge is often the simplest arrangement. Gravity continues carrying the water after the pumped section, outlet flow remains observable, and the system does not depend entirely on soil absorption. “Daylight” means that the pipe terminates openly rather than ending in a buried pit.

Assess the receiving area during the same conditions that activate the pump. A dry patch in midsummer says little about its behavior during prolonged rain, spring snowmelt, frozen ground, or a high seasonal water table.

Rain gardens, dry wells, and perforated trenches have finite storage. They must infiltrate water as it arrives, store the difference temporarily, or release excess water through a safe overflow. Clay, existing saturation, and high groundwater can sharply reduce their useful capacity.

Use the pump manufacturer’s performance information together with observed runtime to characterize the load. A pump that operates briefly a few times a year creates a different design problem from one that cycles repeatedly for hours.

Follow the manufacturer’s requirements for the pumped portion of the line. Obtain site-specific help if you cannot establish the flow, available fall, seasonal groundwater level, infiltration capacity, or safe overflow path.

Compact decision tree

Is there a dependable downhill route to lower ground?
Yes: Favor an accessible daylight outlet, possibly feeding a rock apron, dry creek, or swale.
No: Continue to the soil question.
Can the soil accept water under wet-season conditions?
Yes: Consider a rain garden, dry well, or infiltration trench with defined storage and overflow.
No or uncertain: Investigate a permitted conveyance route or obtain a drainage assessment.
Does the pump operate heavily or nearly continuously during storms?
Yes: Verify flow and downstream capacity instead of relying on a small storage feature.
No: A modest landscaped or infiltration feature may be possible if the soil, overflow route, and local rules support it.
Could blockage or saturation send water toward the house?
Yes: Change the destination or provide a visible emergency path that drains safely away.

Discharge Ideas for a Yard With Reliable Downhill Fall

A sloped yard provides the most straightforward choices because gravity can continue moving the water after it leaves the pumped line.

Removable above-ground extension

A detachable surface pipe or hose is inexpensive, easy to inspect, and simple to reposition. It can serve as a temporary setup while you observe wet-weather flow or test a proposed destination before installing a permanent route.

Its weaknesses are equally visible. A surface extension can move out of position, interfere with mowing, create a tripping hazard, become hidden by vegetation, or be crushed by foot traffic and equipment. Retained water and a snow-covered outlet can also freeze.

Secure the extension so pump flow cannot move it. Keep it away from play areas, paths, driveways, and mower travel, and check its position after yard work and storms.

Solid line to daylight

Where sufficient fall exists, a solid line can carry water to an open termination on lower ground. This creates a visible, serviceable outlet and avoids making infiltration the only disposal mechanism.

The gravity-drained section should descend continuously toward the outlet. Keep the termination open and accessible rather than burying it in mulch or placing it where soil and dense vegetation can conceal it.

Pop-up emitter

A pop-up emitter sits close to lawn level. Flow lifts the cap, water spreads over the surrounding ground, and the cap closes afterward.

An emitter does not correct poor drainage. The line still needs enough fall and capacity to deliver water to the outlet, while the surrounding grade must carry or absorb the discharge. Leaves, grass, mulch, roots, snow, and ice can interfere with the cap or opening.

Place the emitter where it can be found and inspected. Avoid decorative materials that conceal it or prevent it from opening freely.

Stone apron, rock bed, or splash block

A concentrated pipe jet can scour soil and cut a channel through a lawn. A splash block or bed of stable stone spreads the flow over a wider surface and can limit direct erosion.

This treatment stabilizes the immediate outlet; it does not create a suitable destination. Water can still pool if the rock lies in a depression or over saturated clay. Shape the surrounding grade so flow continues away, and remove accumulated leaves, sediment, and displaced mulch.

Vegetated swale or decorative dry creek

A swale is a broad, shallow channel that conveys water across the surface. It may be planted with turf or erosion-resistant vegetation. A decorative dry creek uses stone and landscaping to create a similar visible route.

Both approaches can integrate drainage into the yard while spreading concentrated flow. Keep the channel’s low line continuous, avoid barriers that trap water, and provide a suitable outlet or overflow at the lower end. Do not terminate the route where it simply transfers erosion or flooding to adjacent land.

Quick comparison

These ratings are relative tendencies, not guaranteed performance. Pump flow, grade, climate, soil, outlet construction, and maintenance can change the result.

Idea	Visibility	Mowing impact	Winter exposure	Soil dependence	Relative erosion risk	Routine maintenance
Removable surface extension	High	High	High	Low to moderate	Moderate at outlet	Reposition; clear; inspect for damage
Solid line to daylight	Outlet visible; route may be buried	Low if buried	Moderate at termination	Low	Moderate without stabilization	Clear outlet; inspect grade and pipe
Pop-up emitter	Low	Low	Moderate to high	Moderate	Moderate	Clear cap, vegetation, snow, and sediment
Rock apron or splash block	High	Moderate	Low to moderate	Moderate	Usually lower when properly graded	Reset stone; remove sediment
Vegetated swale	High	Moderate	Variable with frozen ground	Low to moderate	Usually lower if stabilized	Mow or trim; repair ruts and erosion
Decorative dry creek	High	Low to moderate	Low to moderate	Low	Usually lower if stable	Remove debris; reset displaced stone

Visibility is a reliability feature. Whatever option you choose, keep the outlet observable enough to confirm flow and accessible enough to remove debris or correct erosion.

Infiltration and Landscape Options for Flatter Lots

When no practical daylight outlet exists, homeowners often consider rain gardens, dry wells, and infiltration trenches. These features can work only if stored water has a dependable way to leave through the surrounding soil or a controlled overflow.

Rain garden

A rain garden is a shallow planted basin that temporarily holds runoff and allows it to move through soil and vegetation. It can soften the appearance of a discharge area and spread water over more ground than a single pipe outlet.

The basin needs enough area and storage for the incoming discharge, suitable underlying soil, and an overflow route that remains safe when the garden is full. Moisture-tolerant plants can withstand periodic wetness, but they cannot make saturated clay accept unlimited water.

Dry well

A dry well is an underground chamber or stone-filled excavation that stores water while releasing it into surrounding soil.

It is not an unlimited underground drain. Once the available void space fills, new water must infiltrate, back up, or overflow. Useful capacity therefore depends on the excavation, fill material or chamber, surrounding soil, groundwater level, and the rate at which the pump delivers water.

Perforated infiltration trench

A French-drain-style infiltration trench uses gravel and perforated pipe to distribute water along a larger soil-contact area. Use solid pipe to carry the discharge away from the house before any perforated section begins; releasing water beside the foundation can return it to the area the sump is intended to drain.

A longer trench may provide more storage and soil contact, but length alone does not guarantee disposal. The feature still needs suitable soil, adequate separation from structures, room above seasonal groundwater, and a safe overflow destination.

Conditions that undermine infiltration

Performance can decline when:

Clay restricts movement into surrounding soil
The ground is already saturated
Seasonal groundwater enters the feature
Frozen soil prevents absorption
Prolonged rain keeps adding water
Sediment clogs stone, soil, fabric, or perforations
Pump flow exceeds storage and infiltration capacity

A homeowner’s clay-soil excavation illustrates the problem. After standing water was removed from a proposed trench and pit, water reportedly seeped back within hours. This was not a formal soil test, and the discussion did not document a completed design, but it shows why gravel storage alone may be ineffective when surrounding soil and groundwater provide no dependable drainage path. The forum thread documents the homeowner’s reported excavation conditions.

Rain barrels are supplemental storage

A rain barrel can capture some sump water for later landscape use, but it should not be treated as the default primary storm outlet. A barrel has limited storage, while a sump pump may discharge repeatedly during the same event that fills it.

The pump must retain an unobstructed discharge path when the barrel is full; do not rely on the container as the system’s only destination.

Testing and design

An informal soak test may reveal an obvious problem, such as water remaining in a test hole or groundwater entering it. It does not establish the capacity of a heavily used system during prolonged wet weather.

For frequent or substantial discharge, assess the soil, seasonal groundwater, storage dimensions, pump performance, and overflow route together. If those conditions cannot be established, investigate a lawful conveyance route or seek site-specific help rather than assuming additional gravel will solve the problem.

Above Ground or Buried? Compare the Tradeoffs

The choice between an exposed and buried route is largely a tradeoff between visibility and protection from surface activity.

Above-ground routing

An exposed extension is:

Faster and simpler to install
Easy to observe during a pump cycle
Easy to remove, replace, or reroute
Less likely to conceal a leak or crushed section
Useful for testing a destination before permanent work

It is also exposed to:

Mowers and yard equipment
Tripping and play activity
Movement at joints
Vegetation and sediment
Snow and ice
Sunlight and weathering
Kinking or crushing, depending on the material

Buried routing

A buried line creates a cleaner yard and removes the pipe from the mowing path. It can also protect the route from routine surface activity.

Burial, however, conceals problems.

A gravity-drained buried extension needs continuous fall toward its outlet. Avoid bellies that retain water. Use bedding and backfill appropriate to the selected pipe and location, and account for possible settlement rather than assuming that the original trench slope will remain unchanged.

Provide:

An accessible termination
A practical way to inspect or clear the route
Visible confirmation of discharge where feasible
A safe emergency outlet if the downstream line blocks
Protection against soil, leaves, and animals without an unnecessarily restrictive screen

Pipe diameter and material cannot be selected from one universal internet rule. Follow the pump manufacturer’s instructions and consider flow, lift, run length, fittings, transitions, and the receiving route. Commercial recommendations vary, reinforcing the need to use the equipment instructions rather than copying an anecdotal installation. Thrasher’s buried-line overview likewise directs readers to the pump manufacturer for discharge-pipe sizing.

Smooth rigid pipe can make grade easier to establish during installation. Flexible pipe may be easier to route around obstacles, but inadequate support can create dips, kinks, and vulnerable sections. Neither material is universally best.

Before trenching, identify public utilities as well as private irrigation lines, electrical runs, drainage pipes, septic components, easements, and buried structures. Forum guidance in the evidence base also emphasizes contacting the local utility-marking service and verifying jurisdiction-specific drainage rules, but it should not be treated as a substitute for official local instructions. The underlying discussion highlights both utility locating and local approval.

Solutions for Clay Soil, High Groundwater, and No Daylight Outlet

Adding stone does not change the surrounding soil’s infiltration capacity. Gravel provides void space and therefore temporary storage, but stored water still needs to infiltrate, move through an outlet, or overflow. If groundwater already occupies the excavation, some of that storage is unavailable from the start.

Where clay, persistent saturation, or high groundwater makes absorption unreliable, prioritize investigation of a lawful conveyance destination. Possibilities—not automatic approvals—include:

A longer route to genuinely lower ground
A broad, shallow swale across the property
An approved roadside or drainage ditch
A permitted municipal stormwater connection
A private stormwater pipe with verified ownership and capacity
Professionally designed storage with a controlled overflow

Every dry well, rain garden, pop-up emitter, chamber, or trench needs a defined overflow destination. Allowing it to spill into the yard is not a safe plan if the yard slopes toward the foundation, a window well, a walkway, or neighboring property.

Do not solve an on-site drainage problem by moving it to a property boundary. Even when an outlet remains physically on your lot, concentrated flow may cause erosion, flooding, or ice beyond it. Local requirements and downstream effects must be evaluated before selecting the discharge point.

Frequent pumping also deserves diagnosis. Check whether any of these conditions are increasing the load:

Soil slopes toward the foundation
Gutters overflow or leak
Downspouts terminate too close to the house
Exterior discharge recirculates toward the sump
A check valve is malfunctioning
The outlet or line is partly obstructed
Groundwater inflow is unusually high
The pump or piping is mismatched to actual conditions

Professional assessment is prudent when there is no lawful outlet, no continuous fall, nearly continuous pumping, shallow groundwater, repeated saturation, recurring basement water, or uncertainty about downstream effects. Those conditions involve more than choosing among decorative discharge options.

Design for Freezing, Clogs, and Safe Overflow

Exterior discharge failures often become visible under the worst conditions: frozen ground, snowmelt, or a storm that loads both the pump and receiving area.

Water retained in a low spot can freeze and obstruct the line. The pump may then run without lowering the sump level because water cannot pass through the downstream route. Manufacturer guidance identifies a running pump, a basin level that does not fall, and absent visible outlet flow as possible signs of a frozen discharge line. WAYNE Pumps recommends checking both basin-level movement and exterior flow.

Reduce the risk by prioritizing:

Continuous drainage toward the outlet
Elimination of low spots and sagging hose
A clear, accessible termination
Protection from leaves, sediment, animals, snow, and ice
An outlet that does not become submerged
Inspection before freezing weather and during thaw cycles

A freeze-relief or emergency overflow opening provides an alternate escape path if a buried downstream line becomes obstructed. It does not guarantee that the system will never freeze or clog. The relief point must remain open, and its emergency discharge must still move away from the foundation. Commercial winter guidance describes this type of device as an alternate outlet rather than a cure for every downstream blockage. See the contractor’s explanation of freeze-relief behavior.

Burial alone does not guarantee winter reliability. The exterior transition, retained water, termination, snow cover, and frozen receiving soil can still cause failure. There is no universal burial depth for every climate and installation; use local frost information, site grade, local requirements, and the pump or component manufacturer’s instructions.

In cold climates, keep the termination above likely snow accumulation where practical and make it easy to locate after snowfall. Direct both normal and emergency flow away from steps, walkways, and driveways, where discharged water could freeze and create a slip or vehicle hazard.

Warning signs of blockage

Investigate promptly if:

The pump runs but the pit level does not fall
Exterior flow is weak or absent
Ice forms around the outlet or along a leak
The pump cycles more often than usual
Water appears near the foundation after discharge
Joints leak or move while the pump operates
The line gurgles without producing normal flow

Do not use an open flame or boiling water to thaw plastic pipe. Do not add automotive antifreeze to the sump system. Commercial cold-weather guidance specifically discourages flame, boiling water, and automotive antifreeze; any electrical heating product must also be compatible with the pipe and installed according to its instructions. The published winter-safety guidance outlines these precautions.

If the frozen or blocked area is wet, inaccessible, near electrical components, or difficult to identify, stop and obtain qualified help.

Check the Rules Before Connecting to Another Drain

The word “drain” can refer to several systems that are not interchangeable:

A sanitary sewer carries household wastewater to treatment.
A septic system receives and treats wastewater on the property.
A municipal storm sewer conveys rainwater and surface runoff.
A private stormwater pipe serves private lots or developments and may have ownership restrictions.
A downspout drain carries roof runoff, but its destination may be unknown.
A ditch is an open conveyance channel subject to ownership and discharge rules.
A curb outlet releases water at or through a street curb.
A waterway is a stream, creek, pond, or other potentially regulated receiving body.
A daylight outlet is an open pipe termination on lower ground.

Sanitary-sewer and septic discharge are commonly described as restricted or unsuitable because sump water adds flow to systems intended for wastewater. That general guidance does not establish the law for a particular property; the applicable plumbing, sewer, and municipal authorities must confirm what is allowed. A contractor overview distinguishes conditional storm-drain use from commonly restricted sewer and septic discharge.

Storm sewers, curb outlets, ditches, and waterways are conditional options. Depending on the jurisdiction and destination, permission, permits, specified materials, backflow protection, erosion control, or a prescribed connection method may be required. Do not alter a curb or connect to a public pipe without authorization; commercial and forum sources consistently treat these destinations as subject to local approval rather than universally available options.

An existing downspout drain also requires investigation. Determine:

Whether a sump connection is lawful
Who owns the pipe
Whether it is intact or collapsed
Where it terminates
Whether it has continuous fall
Whether it can handle combined roof and sump flow

Roof runoff and sump discharge may peak during the same storm. A pipe that handles either source separately may still be inadequate when both arrive together.

Avoid outlets that send water across sidewalks, driveways, or streets, where it may create ice or uncontrolled runoff. Do not direct concentrated flow onto neighboring property or into a location where it can cause erosion or flooding.

Before approving a connection, consult the appropriate parties:

Pump manufacturer for discharge-pipe requirements
Local plumbing or building department for plumbing and permit rules
Municipal stormwater or public-works office for storm connections, curbs, and ditches
Utility-locating service before excavation
Qualified local contractor or drainage professional when elevation, capacity, soil, or downstream effects remain uncertain

A connection may be permitted in one jurisdiction and restricted in another. Local confirmation is part of the design, not paperwork to address after installation.

Inspect the Complete System, Not Just the Outlet

Commission the completed route while you can observe the entire system. Water reaching one part of the yard does not prove that the full setup works correctly.

Commissioning check

During a controlled or normal pump cycle:

Confirm that the pump starts normally.
Watch the pit level and verify that it falls.
Inspect accessible indoor and outdoor joints for leaks.
Confirm visible flow at the final outlet.
Watch where the water travels after leaving the outlet.
Check for immediate pooling, erosion, reverse flow, or return toward the foundation.
Confirm that a pop-up emitter opens freely, if fitted.
Observe whether the gravity-drained section empties after the pump stops.
Check that the emergency outlet is open and directed safely.
Reinspect after several cycles and after a major storm.

A check valve limits water in the rising discharge pipe from falling back into the sump after shutdown. It does not correct a frozen exterior line, blocked outlet, poor grade, inadequate destination, or undersized downstream route.

Seasonal inspection

Inspect before winter, after snowmelt or in early spring, and after major storms:

Pipe joints and supports
Flexible sections for kinks or crushing
Buried routes for settlement or soft depressions
Pop-up emitters for free movement
Screens or guards for debris
Rock aprons for sediment and displaced stone
Swales for erosion, overgrowth, and blocked low points
Rain gardens for prolonged standing water and damaged overflow paths
Dry-well or chamber overflow points
Snow and ice around outlets
Roots, mulch, leaves, and lawn growth
Signs of animal nesting or obstruction
Wet soil or returning water near the house

Warning signs include pooling, persistent saturation, erosion, exterior ice, rapid cycling, continuous operation, gurgling, weak discharge, recurring basement water, or a pit level that does not drop.

These symptoms do not always make the exterior outlet the sole cause. Pump capacity, power supply, check-valve condition, excessive inflow, clogged intake components, and other system faults may also be involved. Changing the yard outlet alone may not resolve a broader pump-system problem.

For common yard conditions, the practical choices are:

Dependable slope: Use a solid route to an accessible daylight outlet.
Visible flow with erosion concerns: Add a rock apron, splash block, dry creek, or stabilized swale.
Flat yard with verified suitable soil: Consider a rain garden, dry well, or infiltration trench with storage and a defined overflow.
Clay, high groundwater, or persistent saturation: Investigate an approved conveyance route instead of relying only on infiltration.
Cold climate: Minimize retained water, keep the outlet accessible, and provide a safe emergency path.
Appearance-sensitive yard: Conceal or bury the route without sacrificing access at the termination and service points.

The final sequence is straightforward: identify a lawful destination, use dependable fall where available, confirm that the soil can accept any planned infiltration, match the route to the pump manufacturer’s requirements, and provide a visible overflow path for saturation, freezing, or blockage.

The most attractive installation is not successful if its outlet cannot be found, maintained, or trusted during the severe conditions that cause the sump pump to run.

Frequently Asked Questions

How far from the house should a sump pump discharge?

A frequently suggested starting range is 10–20 feet from the foundation, but no distance is universally correct. Grade, soil, seasonal groundwater, pump activity, property boundaries, and local requirements determine whether the outlet is far enough away. The cited contractor guidance presents 10–20 feet as a general recommendation.

The functional test is whether water continues moving away. An outlet within that range may still fail if it sits in saturated soil or on ground that slopes back toward the house.

Is it better to bury a sump-pump discharge line or leave it above ground?

Neither option is always better. An above-ground extension is easy to install, inspect, replace, and reroute, but it is exposed to mowing, movement, tripping, vegetation, snow, and freezing.

A buried line is less disruptive to lawn use but can conceal settlement, crushing, trapped water, clogs, or a frozen outlet. If buried, it needs continuous fall where gravity drainage is intended, an accessible termination, a practical means of inspection, and a safe emergency path.

Will a dry well work for sump discharge in clay soil?

Possibly, but clay makes an infiltration-only design uncertain. A dry well stores water temporarily; it does not make poorly draining soil absorb water. If clay, shallow groundwater, or prolonged saturation prevents stored water from leaving, the feature can fill and back up.

Evaluate wet-season soil conditions, groundwater, pump load, storage, and overflow together. Where absorption is unreliable, investigate daylight drainage or a permitted conveyance route.

Can a sump pump connect to a storm sewer or an existing downspout drain?

Sometimes, but only after local and physical checks. A municipal storm connection may require permission, a permit, approved materials, backflow protection, or a specified connection method. It is not the same as a sanitary-sewer connection.

For a downspout drain, verify lawful use, ownership, pipe condition, destination, grade, and combined capacity. Roof runoff and sump flow may peak together.

How do I keep an exterior sump discharge line from freezing?

Design the gravity-drained route to empty after each cycle: maintain continuous fall, avoid sags and low spots, keep the termination clear, and protect it from debris, animals, snow, and ice. Keep the outlet accessible and, where practical, above likely snow accumulation.

Provide an emergency outlet so water has another path if the downstream section blocks. Do not assume burial alone prevents freezing, and do not rely on one generic burial depth. A running pump that does not lower the basin level, especially when no exterior flow is visible, may indicate a frozen or blocked line. WAYNE Pumps identifies these as warning signs requiring investigation.